Alice Springs to Darwin on the Ghan – July 31, 2025 (Author: J)
As I mentioned, we visited Alice Springs solely because it allowed us to catch the Ghan to Darwin. If you are not familiar with the Ghan, it is a transcontinental train connecting Adelaide to Darwin. The Ghan started running between Adelaide and Alice Springs in the 1920s, but it was not until the early 2000s that the tracks from Alice to Darwin were completed. It takes its name from the Afghan cameleers who helped to transport goods across the Outback before the train was completed. As we learned at the camel museum in Yulara, the Afghan cameleers hailed mainly from, you guessed it, Pakistan.
Today, the Ghan operates as an all-inclusive tourist train. That has a couple of implications for travelers. First, the Ghan does not run every day, so you need to plan your itinerary around it. Second, the Ghan is expensive. Our one-night package was the single most expensive line item in our trip budget after our flight from the US to Australia. (As an aside, the Ghan package actually put us over budget for the trip. We compensated for this overage by signing up for several new credit cards and using the sign-up bonuses to pay for several of our hotels).
So, was the Ghan worth the logistical effort and expense? For us, the answer was yes. As of this trip, everyone in my family has a fear of flying. Even poor P, who used to happily sleep through severe turbulence, now hyperventilates and does his Hail Marys whenever the fasten seatbelt sign goes on. There are no direct flights from Yulara to Darwin. So, our Ghan tickets allowed us to replace what would have been a stressful day of flights and layovers with a stress-free overland train journey. And the service, food quality, and experience on the Ghan did match the premium price tag, in my opinion.
That brings us back to Alice, which we would not have had the opportunity to enjoy but for the Ghan, and where I woke up on Thursday morning with a day to fill before our 4 pm transfer to the Ghan. As usual, I was the first person awake, so I brought our dirty laundry down to the hotel laundry room and then went to the gym while the wash cycle ran. Unlike Sails in the Dessert, the DoubleTree in Alice charges for laundry. But not having to fold and pack a bunch of dirty clothing was worth a few dollars to me. On my way back from the gym, I moved our laundry to the dryer. Then, I went upstairs to get ready for the day and enjoy a cup of hotel room coffee. Eventually, both our laundry and my family were ready, so it was time to begin the day.
We started with breakfast at the buffet in the DoubleTree. Unfortunately for the DoubleTree, our fantastic meals at the Olive Pink Botanic Garden and Hanuman were fresh in my mind, and the buffet did not compare favorably. I would recommend skipping it unless breakfast is included in your room rate. After breakfast, we packed up and brought our bags down to the luggage room in the lobby. Then, we took a walk around town. This time, our focus was on peeking in the various shops and art galleries. We also had lunch at Loco Burrito, a quick serve restaurant with a covered outdoor dining area. After our walk, we went back to the hotel and sat by the pool until it was time for our shuttle to the Ghan. (My only complaint about the DoubleTree is that there is no hot tub in the pool area; it would have been a lovely day for a soak).
If you are planning a trip to Alice Springs, you will come across a lot of information on the crime rate (which is high for Australia). Recognizing that one person’s personal experience is not a very helpful data point when it comes to crime, I will still briefly share my impressions. During our walk, we saw groups of locals biking near the DoubleTree. When we crossed the river into the main part of town, we saw locals in their work attire running errands and what I assume was a mix of tourists and locals eating at various outdoor dining patios. That gave me the impression that it was safe enough to walk around during the day. The one negative that I noted was the fair number of shuttered shops and restaurants, which gave the impression that the town is going through an economic rough patch. Overall, I enjoyed Alice Springs and was happy that I visited. Without a car, we did have some limits on where we could go. But there was enough to visit on foot to fill our time. I actually would have appreciated another day in town to do a hiking tour to the MacDonnell Ranges.
When we originally booked our trip on the Ghan, transfers were included only for folks in premium cabins. However, when I reached out to Journey Beyond (which operates the train) for help arranging a ride to the station, I was told that everyone joining the train in Alice would receive an included transfer. I didn’t ask about the reason for the change, but it was much appreciated; I struggled to find taxi options on my own.
Our transfer arrived on time, made stops at a few hotels in town, and then dropped everyone at the train station. The station itself is nothing fancy – a room with some tables, a bar, and a small gift shop. The bar was set up with buckets of soft drinks and little packets of cookies to enjoy while waiting for the train. We checked in, had a snack, and waited until it was time to board the train. Before too long, the Southbound train to Adelaid left the station and the Northbound train pulled in.
We boarded and headed to our cabins to drop off our luggage. A family of three traveling in Gold (aka the cheapest cabin class) needs two cabins. We had booked a double cabin and a single cabin. I let P select the parent that he wanted to bunk with, and I won because I don’t snore. The double cabins have their own bathrooms, while single cabins have shared bathrooms. Both cabin types make good use of the snug space with beds that fold into a chair or couch during the day, and shelving to store luggage. People who are travelling with more than a carry-on can store extra luggage below the train during the journey.
Once we had checked out our accommodations and spoken with our cabin attendant, we reconvened in the lounge car for pre-dinner drinks. It was clear that most of the people in the lounge were doing the full route from Adelaide as they all seemed to know one another. They were a friendly group, though, and they made us feel welcome. One surprise was the age-range of our fellow travelers. We were anticipating mainly pensioners but instead found a mixed group. Perhaps proximity to the car full of single cabins impacted the demographics in our area of the train?
After some sparkling wine, some reading, and some chatting, we were called to dinner. In Gold class, dinner is a three-course affair. I was a little nervous about whether P would eat because he is a restrictive eater and the vegetarian options were heavy on the vegetables. But it was clear as soon as our server came over to discuss our dietary preferences that there was nothing to worry about. P was able to sub the cheese course from the dessert menu for the cauliflower soup appetizer, and the kitchen made him a special pasta dish for his main.
D and I ordered off the menu, beginning with more wine because it was included. We also enjoyed a cauliflower soup starter, with a chickpea dal main for me and barramundi for D. All three of us had the chocolate gateau for dessert. And more wine for the adults. It was included. After dinner, we spent some more time together in the lounge before returning to our cabins where our seating had been converted into beds. I climbed up into the top bunk and settled in. Whether it was due to the comfort of the bed or all of the wine, I had no trouble sleeping that night.
Travel Monkeys 