July 5, 2023 (Author: J)
Trip Report: ABD Day 2
After another good night’s sleep (the Gran Melia’s beds are super comfy), we were up at 5 am for what I was expecting to be a trip highlight: a private tour of the Vatican Museums. Unfortunately, I woke up to an earache. I took a minute to feel sorry for myself. Then I took some aspirin and got ready for the day.
This was the first of 3 days where we needed to have covered knees and shoulders. D and I had purchased linen pants especially for the trip. (These were a great purchase; my pants were full length, but the linen material made them much cooler than the capri pants I had used for church and temple visits on prior trips). P wore hiking pants.
When I read the itinerary for this trip, I was a little worried about touring before breakfast. I get hangry when my mealtimes are off. It turns out that I needn’t have worried. The “breakfast at the Vatican” mentioned in the trip itinerary is actually second breakfast at the Vatican. Our first breakfast of the day was available from 5 am in the hotel’s lobby bar. We arrived in the bar around 5:30 to find a subdued group of fellow travelers enjoying the spread of pastries, fruit, yogurt, meats, and cheeses. I fueled up with some fruit, a croissant, and some much-needed coffee.
The Vatican is literally across the street from the Gran Melia, so I thought that we might walk to the museums. Instead, at 6 am, Gabby and Massi led us into a garage where our bus was parked. We then made a short drive to the far side of Vatican City where the museums are located. The longest part of the drive was the series of turns we had to make to get ourselves pointed in the correct direction after leaving our hotel.
(Above: Vatican gates)
When we arrived at the Vatican Museums, we assembled outside the museum gates where we were assigned to either the Pinocchio or Geppetto group and met our local guides. (At many of the attractions we visited, we were split into two smaller groups due to group size restrictions. I think this may be a relic of Covid, but it was a positive one. The smaller group sizes made it easier to maneuver in crowded locations). We were then briefed on how to clear security and made our way into the building. There was an opportunity to use the restrooms before we joined our guide, Christina, who led us into the museums.
The entrance to the Vatican Museums is via a spiral ramp that takes you up several stories. There are also elevators for those with mobility issues (and Christina, who – despite her high energy – doesn’t care for walking up hills). At the top of the ramp, we entered the museum. As we toured, the keeper of the keys walked in front of us, opening the rooms to the museum. Now, I knew from my pre-trip research that the Vatican Museums are typically very crowded, so I had some appreciation for how special it was to see the rooms completely empty. For that reason, I took just as many pictures of the empty rooms as I did of the art.
(Above: scenes from an empty museum)
The Vatican Museums are a maze of rooms filled with centuries worth of amazing art, from Greek statutes and Roman mosaic to Renaissance masterpieces like Raphael’s the School of Athens and, of course, Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling. You could probably spend days here. We had about an hour to explore, with Christina pointing out highlights for us. Then, at the end of the tour, the Pinocchio and Geppetto groups both assembled in the Sistine Chapel where we had a full 30-minutes to admire the ceiling. With just 40 people in the room, there was plenty of space to wander or to sit quietly and contemplate the art. This was one of those indescribable experiences where words fail. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos, so my inadequate description is all I have to share.
(Above: P admires Laocoon)
(Above: School of Athens)
As we left the Sistine Chapel, the museums opened to the public. Rooms that we had moved freely in filled with a sea of people packed in so tightly that it was difficult to see the floors. D, who until that moment had been complaining that he would have liked more time in the museums, quickly changed his view. An hour in an empty museum was just right, he now agreed.
We headed to a courtyard restaurant that – for some reason — serves “American” breakfast. There, we had eggs, pancakes with imitation maple syrup, breakfast pastries, juice, and coffee. There was also plenty of meat for those who ate it. The quality of the food was on par with that of an American fast-food restaurant, but the convenience and opportunity to continue to experience the Vatican’s ambiance made it a special meal.
(Above: American breakfast)
After breakfast, we braved the crowds inside the Vatican museums to use the restrooms. (This is worth doing just to appreciate how special the private tour was). Then, we walked back to the bus. Next on our packed itinerary was a walking tour of the historic heart of Rome. Our driver (Massi, but not that Massi) took us back across the river and dropped us off in a neighborhood at the top of the Spanish steps. Of course, I did not realize this right away. It was only when D elbowed me knowingly as we were walking down a rather large set of stairs that I realized we were on those stairs.
Entering the most touristy part of Rome by descending the Spanish steps is a great way to do it. You get a panoramic view of the area from the top of the steps and then slowly descend into the tourist crowds. From the Spanish steps, we walked to a fountain where we were able to fill our water bottles with the same water that fills the Trevi fountain. (The water in the Trevi fountain is recycled, though, so you definitely don’t want to fill your bottle there).
(Above: Trevi Fountain)
Then, we made our way to the Trevi Fountain itself. Gabby had coins ready for us so that we could perform the coin-throwing ritual that would ensure our return to Rome. I’m not a particularly superstitious person, but I certainly hope that this particular ritual works. After coin throwing and family photos, we had some time to spend at the fountain. We found a shady spot to sit where we could both admire the fountain and recover from the heat.
Our next stop was the Pantheon. This was another location where covered knees and shoulders are required. It was also the first place where we encountered aggressive vendors. I suppose that I should admire the zeal with which they tried to sell shoulder coverings to people who were very clearly wearing sleeved shirts. While we were declining to purchase various wraps and shawls, Massi and Gabby were showing our tickets to security. When we were finally cleared to enter, a family who had moments earlier been told they were in the wrong line seized the opportunity to gain free priority admission to the Pantheon by mingling with our group. So, budget traveler tip, I guess?
The Pantheon is one of the best preserved ancient Roman buildings. Like the Colosseum, it was spared from destruction because it was turned into a church. But, unlike the Colosseum, the Pantheon was converted to its current use before its marble was stripped away. The most noteworthy feature of the Pantheon is its doomed roof. It was the inspiration for two other domes we would see later in the trip: St. Peter’s in the Vatican and the Duomo in Florence.
After our time in the Pantheon, we made a brief stop in Piazza Navona to view the fountain of the four rivers. There, I impressed our guide by correctly guessing that the animal chosen to represent the Americas was supposed to be an armadillo. When our guide asked how I knew, I pointed to the animal’s scales. The real answer, of course, is that I spent many years watching Wild Kratts with P. If an animal was featured on that show, you bet I know it.There were no screen time limits in our house, folks. And look how it paid off.
(Above: An armadillo, obviously)
Our final activity for the day was lunch at a Neapolitan pizza place. Soft drinks, salad, and pizza were included in our tour price. Wine and beer were also available for purchase. The first pizza to come out was a traditional margherita. I found it to be bland and soggy. (I’m not sure if this is because I don’t like Neapolitan pizza, or if this just wasn’t a great representation of Neapolitan pizza). After the margherita, we received a 4 cheese that we enjoyed a bit more. It was still soggy, but the cheese blend was flavorful.
By this point, we had eaten 3 salads and 2 full pizzas between us. We were full. We declined the diavolo pizza explaining that we did not eat meat. Then, we started to gather our things to leave. As we were standing, our waitress returned with a vegetable pizza. We politely declined, explaining that we were full. The waitress left with the pizza. Then, she returned with the pizza and another woman, who I assume was her manager. The new woman told us that we had to take the pizza because we had ordered it.
“We didn’t order another pizza,” I responded, puzzled.
The two women left with the pizza. A few seconds later they were back with the pizza still in hand. This time, they offered to pack it to go. It was a nice thought, and I am pretty sure we offended everyone at the restaurant when we declined the to go option.
After lunch, everyone was given the option to either return to the Gran Melia on the bus or stay in the historic center to explore. We followed the majority back to the bus. A short and delightfully air-conditioned ride deposited us back at the hotel. Once there, P and D made a beeline for the pool. I stayed in our room because the time had come to deal with my earache.
I was not looking forward to a doctor’s visit in a foreign country (or figuring out the process for obtaining an insurance reimbursement for that visit). Fortunately, my health insurance offers 24/7 telemed visits. I decided to videochat with a provider in the US to figure out if my ear could be treated without an in-person doctor’s visit. This turned out to be a great decision. The doctor I spoke with felt strongly that my ear problems were allergy related and recommended that I try OTC allergy pills. I hung up the call feeling quite grateful that a telemed visit had been an option. Then, I researched the Italian name for the medication I had been told to find and took a walk to the nearest pharmacy.
Unlike American pharmacies, Italian pharmacies keep most of their OTC medicines behind the counter. That meant that I had no choice but to speak with the pharmacist. She immediately realized that I was a foreigner and was able to help me in flawless English. The pharmacy had exactly what I was looking for. And, again unlike American pharmacies, the medicine was priced at an affordable 4 euros.
I went back to the hotel, took my pill and rested for a bit. Then I repacked our suitcases in anticipation of our transfer to Tuscany the following day. After my rest, I found P and D at the pool. We stayed there until it was time to get cleaned up for dinner.
A few weeks before our trip, I learned about a restaurant called Mater Terrae on the Tripadvisor forums. It is a vegetarian restaurant that earned a Michelin Green Star. As the Michelin website explains, “the Green Star highlights restaurants at the forefront of the industry when it comes to their sustainable practices.” Although the restaurant is pricey, we could not resist the opportunity to eat a Michelin-awarded vegetarian meal. We decided to call it an early anniversary dinner (our anniversary is at the end of July) and I made a reservation.
(above: view of Rome at sunset)
Mater Terrae is set on the rooftop of a hotel. In good weather, they offer dining on the terrace, which looks out over the rooftops of Rome. The weather was absolutely perfect for outdoor dining and – because it was an anniversary dinner – we were seated at a corner table overlooking the Vatican.
(above: our avian dining companion)
Our meal was special in every way. Special occasion, beautiful views, wonderful food and wine, and our special dining companion, a random seagull. We started with fried artichokes for D and I and a cheese-stuffed focaccia for P. Then D and I each had a pasta course and a main. D went with eggplant, and I decided to order an asparagus dish because it was something unique. Finally, we each ordered dessert: tiramisu for P, zabaglione for D and a crepe and ice cream dish for me. By the time we finished our meal, the sun had fully set, and we were looking out over the twinkling lights of Rome.
After our meal, we walked back to the hotel through the cobblestone alleys of Rome. It was after 10 pm, but cafes were still packed with dinners and many shops were still open. As we crossed the river, we heard jazz music and we peaked over the bridge to see a riverside jazz club packed with people. Although the city was still awake, we were ready for bed.
Travel Monkeys 